
What?
A one-night stay in a cosy Christmassy pub.
Having hosted big celebrations for my 30th birthday, I wanted to celebrate my 31st in a much more low key relaxing way. As my birthday is only days away from Christmas a festive city escape sounded perfect, and the Cotswolds is less than 2 hours from London. We packed our overnight bags and jumped on a train from Paddington to Kingham.
After arriving at Kingham train station we walked 10 minutes up the road to catch the bus to take us to The Swan in Ascott-under Wychwood. It couldn’t have been more different from getting a bus in London, it was more like a minibus that could sit fewer than 20 people. The bus driver Martin and the three fellow (more senior) passengers were super friendly and, not knowing the fare for non-regular passengers, only charged us a pound each for the journey. When one of the other passengers, Fred, reached his stop he gave a couple of nice bottles of beers to Martin as he wished him Merry Christmas. The journey was a really lovely and wholesome start to our little break!
On arriving at The Swan, through the beautifully decorated front door, we were greeted with a warm open fire which was perfectly set up with two arm chairs.




We dropped of our overnight bags and headed out for a wintery walk in the Cotswolds countryside. We took a circular route starting and ending at The Swan, walking next to the river Evenlode and passing Bruern Abbey and Pudlicote House along the way.






As my birthday is also the day of winter solstice, the sun was setting towards the end of our walk and it was twilight when we arrived back at The Swan.


Before returning to our room, we settled down in the pubs prime spot, the arm chairs next to the fire. As we relaxed by the fire we enjoyed some mulled wine and ‘mucky’ toast, salty pork scratchings and sweet apple sauce on toasted sourdough bread.


Our room was both cosy and luxurious, with fluffy dressing gowns and a very generously sized bath. Relaxation continued with a deep soak with lots of bubbles.
Afterwards we were back downstairs in a snug window nook, adjacent to the fire, for a very atmospheric evening meal. To start, I enjoyed a big bowl of steaming mussels straight out of the copper pan they were prepared in, and then a perfectly cooked steak for my main. When we finished our wine we were ready to retire, and we didn’t have far to go – one of the benefits of staying in a great pub!


We found our one night stay in the Cotswolds was a great mini escape from London life, enough of a break from the commotion of the city, especially around Christmas. Will definitely be seeking out other one night stays in equally cosy, comforting pubs in the future.
How?
Tube to Paddington, Train to Kingham, bus to The Swan.
How long?
1 hour 20 minute train from Paddington to Kingham station.
30 minute bus from Kingham to The Swan.
Total travel time 1 hour 50 minutes
How much?
£2.90 tube to Paddington
£35.60 train to Kingham
£1 bus fare
£100 wine and dinner
£81 night stay at The Swan
£220.50 total cost